Exfoliation Advice for Men & The Top Exfoliators

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For the “I’m only just getting into skin care” type guys out there, exfoliation may be an extra step that you’re just not are familiar with, especially if you’ve only just got into a regular habit of washing your face with something other than soap. If you’re not quite there yet, see my top picks for cleansers for men and also my top picks for moisturisers for men. If you’re up for it, here are my recommendations and Exfoliation Advice for Men.

If you get it right, exfoliation can transform a dry, dull complexion to a more youthful, healthy looking skin that is more even in texture. Note the emphasis is on “if you get it right”.

Because men generally have thicker skin than women, we can usually tolerate a slightly more abrasive exfoliation. However, one of my favourite sayings when it comes to treating the skin is “just because you can, it doesn’t mean you should”.

Our thicker skin is a gift. It provides more protection, which means we age better. Mistreating our skin with aggressive exfoliants can degrade the skin barrier function and therefore make the skin less able to protect itself.

So why risk exfoliation at all? Well, as we age our cell turnover slows down, as does our natural ‘shedding’ process known as desquamation. This results in a compacted stratum corneum and makes the skin look dry, dull and less aesthetically pleasing. Exfoliation helps to remove the build up and keep the skin looking more youthful. It also means you may need less moisturiser and any products you do apply topically can penetrate that little bit better.

However, moderation is key! My favourite method of exfoliation is through the use of enzymes and / or acids. Known as ‘chemical’ exfoliation, they work by dissolving the desmosomes (bonds) that hold the skin cells together, thus supporting the skins natural desquamation process (read more about skin function friendly exfoliation HERE).

Like most products, the men’s skin care market (because still relatively young) is years behind the rest of the industry so relies heavily on scrubs. Known as ‘mechanical’ exfoliation. These work through physical abrasion to slough off dead skin cells.

There are three key things to remember with manual scrubs

1) The grain that is used is extremely important and should be as close to spherical under a microscope as possible (jojoba esters and finely milled powders are ideal). Avoid anything too big or abrasive.

2) Do not use any more than once or twice a week, depending on skin type (especially if using washcloths when cleansing that have additional abrasion)

3) Don’t apply too much pressure.  Men especially tend to really scrub at their skin. Think limp wrists, like you’re shaking hands with your Nan!

Also, let’s get one thing clear if a product contains the words “Daily”, “Face” & “Scrub” on the bottle –  do not buy it! No one needs mechanical exfoliation on a daily basis. Not unless you’ve got a stratum corneum death wish and like the idea of premature ageing.

Top Exfoliators For Men

Mazorin Wash Trade – Face Scrub (£15)

This is a creamy based formulation, compared to the traditional foaming-based men’s scrubs. The Mazorin face scrub incorporates fine powder exfoliants of Bamboo and Maracuja, plus Salicylic acid so you’re getting the best of both physical and chemical exfoliation. It also contains anti-inflammatory Willow Herb extract so helps to protect the skin during the treatment.

It’s suitable for all skin types and is free-from parabens, mineral oil, artificial colours and fragrance.

Neals Yard Revitalising Face Scrub For Men (£15)

Another creamy based formulation, but unlike the Mazorin (which doesn’t really have any scent to it), the Neals Yard Revitalising Face Scrub is packed full of essential oils (so sensitive skins beware). It smells fantastic, clean but energising.

This uses milled corn meal and rice powder for exfoliation, plus it also contains Kaolin (clay) so particular good for a oilier complexion, giving a cleansing and mattifying benefit whilst it exfoliates and polishes the skin. A kind of mask & exfoliator in one.

Of course, being from Neal’s Yard it contains a high percentage of organic ingredients and is also free-free from parabens, mineral oil, artificial colours etc.

CosMedix Pure Enzymes Exfoliating Mask  (£45.24)

Ok, so technically this isn’t from a men’s range, however like I said earlier, my personal method of exfoliation uses enzymes and acids, because they work more closely with the skin’s natural desquamation process and unfortunately I’m yet to come across a purely enzyme or acid-based exfoliator within a men’s range (please speak up if you know of one!). CosMedix Pure Enzymes is what I use on myself on my clients. It combines pure cranberry enzymes with L-Lactic acid, plus a whole bunch of potent antioxidants and anti-inflammatory ingredients.

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